Taken from my blog at Five Ten’s Community Site
Well hello there! This is my first blog post here on the Five Ten community site, and I’m stoked to be here.
First, a quick introduction. My name is Dustin Glasner, and I’m a climber from the DC Metro Area. I’m 24 years old and have been climbing for about two years, and I got serious about it and started training about a year ago. I work at Earth Treks in Rockville, and I climb there 5 or 6 times a week. I also work a full time job as a biologist, but that’s a different story.
Now, onto the good stuff. I can’t believe that Summertime is drawing to a close. I know there are technically a few weeks left, but school is starting up for people, Fall beers are available…it’s just that time of year. This was a pretty outstanding Summer for me in terms of climbing. I finally the got opportunity to take several trips outside, including bouldering at Northwest Branch and Rocky Gorge Reservoir in Maryland and Govenor Stable in Pennsylvania, as well as sport climbing at the New.
I’m still building up my strength as a boulderer, especially outside, but I’m psyched to have a handful of projects in the V5-7 range on real rock. My goal is to tick some V6 and 7 problems this Fall, but we’ll see how often I get out to boulder. Routes remain my primary overall focus, and I had a very solid trip to the New – my first real trip outside! I was definitely stoked on the climbing, and I surprised myself by doing pretty well. I ended up ticking Disturbance, a classic 5.11d at Beauty Mountain – after being completely confused by the crux sequence, I fired it on my second go…an awesome feeling indeed! I don’t think I got on a single warm-up the entire trip (a consequence of climbing with 5.13+ climbers), so Disturbance was my only send. I did work out all the moves on Toxic Hueco (5.11d) and Tobacco Road (5.12b), and I’m confident I’ll send both rather easily on my next trip. So many climbs on my to-do list at the New!
As usual, however, I spent the majority of the Summer inside, pulling on plastic in a lovely air conditioned setting. I sent my hardest indoor climb on ropes (5.12c) and have really felt myself get significantly stronger on routes. Strangely enough, I’ve been in a bouldering mindset lately at the gym, and I’ve gotten to a consistent V6 level – plus, I’m close to sending my first V9. Pretty cool. Also, I competed twice this Summer, and I didn’t embarrass myself in my first open competition (PRG’s Sun Burn). I also took part in Sportrock’s Beat the Heat, though I didn’t enter a scorecard due to injury.
I also got a very cool opportunity to work with my friend Sasha DiGiulian a few weeks ago. I coached her on dynos and dynamic movement, and she made huge improvement from the start to finish of our session. I’m not surprised though considering how amazing of a climber she is! With the ability to add some more dynamic movement to her climbing arsenal, I think she’ll continue to push limits as a climber. Additionally, wishing her a speedy recovery from a tendon injury!
Now, it’s Sendtember, and I’m looking forward to an awesome Fall.
There are a few great things going on for me right now. First, I’m hoping to secure my first brand ambassadorship as a climber with Skratch Labs, a great company that produces outstanding hydration mixes for athletes. I should hear very soon. And second, I’m being considered for the assistant coach position with Earth Treks Rockville’s youth teams. Coaching has been something I want to do for a very long time, and I’m stoked on the possibility of getting that chance!
As we get more into the Fall, I’m hoping to take a trip or two to the Red River Gorge in Kentucky. People keep telling me it’s my style and that I’ll crush very hard there, so I’m excited to see if they’re right. Of course, I’m hoping to head back to the New for a few weekends and tick my projects and find some new ones. I may be in California for a few days in October – not necessarily for climbing, but I will of course be bringing my gear! Otherwise it’d be nice to get to Rumney, but that’s probably a pipedream. Oh, and I may go to Hueco this Winter – we’ll see!
I’ll probably compete a few times this Fall, but my sights are set squarely and solidly on the spring sport climbing season. More on that down the road.
So, with that I say farewell to Summer, and I welcome the Fall with open arms, chalky hands, and brand new Teams. Get out there and SEND.
Stay stoked and climb on!