Spring Training Schedule

Today, after four weeks of rest to allow my shoulder (and a few other things) to heal, I got back into the gym tonight and started climbing again. It felt absolutely fantastic!

I’m really weak right now, but I managed to get most of the V3s in the gym – and my shoulder felt fine the entire time. I’m psyched and motivated to get back to training! I have a handful of comps for the upcoming season, and I’ve got a lot of work to do over the next few months to get to where I need to be.

So today, I sat down and talked to my good friend and mentor Will Anglin to figure out what my training should look like.

Will is one of the strongest climbers I’ve ever met, and I’m lucky to have him around Earth Treks to pick his brain, climb the routes he sets, and see how hard work and dedication can pay off in volumes. Will is extremely knowledgeable about training, movement, technique, injuries…pretty much everything you could ever need as you try to become a better climber.

So, for the next three months, I’m going to be following a new training schedule that should help me strengthen and maintain my shoulder, improve my power, and be ready to crush routes in some comps (and set me up for a productive outdoor season, I hope).

So without further ado, here are the first two months (month three to come later):

Month 1 (March 3 – March 30)
Weeks 1 and 2

  • Warm-up
  • 45 minutes bouldering (3-4 days/week)
  • Hangboard (3-4 days/week)
  • Shoulder stabilization & core (4 days/week)

Week 3

  • Warm-up
  • 45 minutes hard bouldering/system board (3 days/week)
  • Hangboard & weighted pull-ups (3 days/week)
  • Shoulder stabilization & core (4 days/week)

Week 4

  • Warm-up
  • 1 hour hard bouldering (2 days/week)
  • Hangboard & weighted pull-ups (2 days/week)
  • Shoulder stabilization & core (2 days/week)

Month 2 (March 31 – April 27)
Weeks 1 and 2

  • Warm-up
  • 30 minutes bouldering (3-4 days/week)
  • 4x4s (3-4 days/week)
  • Power endurance hangboard (2-3 days/week)
  • Light shoulder (3-4 days/week)

Week 3

  • Warm-up
  • 30 minutes long bouldering/system board (3 days/week)
  • Doubles – ropes (1 day/week)
  • Spanish workout (2 days/week)
  • Power endurance hangboard (2-3 days/week)

  • Light shoulder (3 days/week)

Week 4

  • Warm-up
  • 30 minutes long bouldering/system board (3 days/week)

  • 4x4s (1 day/week)
  • Doubles – ropes (2 days/week)
  • Light shoulder (3 days/week)

The idea for this plan is to focus on power for one month and make some gains there, then power endurance for the next month, and finally endurance and route climbing for the final month. As you work through the month, the difficulty increases while the volume decreases. The last week is the hardest, but you’re doing it the least – working hard but also allowing your body time to recover before beginning the next microcycle.

I’m still working out what I’ll do specifically for shoulder stabilization, core, and hangboard. I’ll most likely change it up throughout the entire macrocycle to keep my body from adjusting to specific workouts. Suggestions are welcome!

The timing for this all works out perfectly with the tentative date of Central Rock Gym’s Ring of Fire competition, an event I’ve been looking forward to since last year. The dates for some local comps also fit in quite well with the schedule.

I’m quite excited to really get going with this. I’m mentally more ready to work hard than ever before, and I’m confident my body is ready to handle it as well.

So stoked to be back! More to come – thanks for reading!

Advertisements

One response to “Spring Training Schedule

  1. Pingback: On your mark, get set…rock climb! | To Defy Gravity·

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s