Film Study: Falling on Fly Boy Sit (V8), Bishop, CA

On my recent trip to Bishop, I had the goal of sending Fly Boy Sit (V8) in mind. I spent a session working the climb and trashing my tips, and though I came quite close to sending, I didn’t quite pull it out over Thanksgiving.

Lately, I’ve been using some video in the gym to get a better idea of how I climb and move on the wall – particularly to diagnose any inefficiencies or bad habits I may be forming. In this case, I had a friend film me on the last half of Fly Boy, specifically so I could see myself on the very last move – an all-points-off dyno to the lip (for me, at least).

This proved very useful, and I was able to see my foot placement, hip movement, and overall body positioning on what was a pretty solid effort.

The first and most obvious thing I noticed was my left foot during the dyno. You’ll see when the video pauses, my left foot has just picked off the wall. As a result, the force of my foot swinging backwards impedes my movement, resulting in my body falling away from the wall when I should, ideally, still be moving upwards. Though I hit the lip, I’m still inches away from the good edge further over and back.

I also noticed myself looking very tense and shaky, as well as some un-sureness with my feet and general hesitation before the move. On a problem like Fly Boy, I couldn’t afford to be anything but perfect – and I certainly wasn’t on this attempt here.

It was great having the ability to watch myself between goes and diagnose these things at the boulder. I sat in the sun, ate some food, and drank some Skratch while analyzing all of these aspects of my previous attempt.

On my next go, I came painfully close to sticking the move – my foot stayed on longer, pulling me into the wall and allowing me to drive my hips upwards towards the lip, and I moved with precision & efficiency and without hesitation – but I still fell a fingertip’s length short of controlling the hold. I could feel my fingers barely catch the edge, but it wasn’t enough to keep me on.

Next time, it should go! Beyond stoked to get back and give this problem a real solid effort.

Yusuke Tamari sending Fly Boy Sit (V8) Photo Credit: Dusty Glasner

Yusuke Tamari sticking the dyno on Fly Boy Sit (V8)
Photo Credit: Dusty Glasner

As always, thanks to Skratch Labs for fueling the pursuit of my passions and keeping me warm in the shade with some hot apples & cinnamon hydration mix!

And apologies for the epic J.J. Abrams lens flare action going on…it was a bit sunny.

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